Situated in the stunning little enclave of Elleker in Brough on the outskirts of Hull, we were recommended by some newly found acquaintances who, through many musings over food and dining, were compelled to let us in on a restaurant on their doorstep in a place I’d never heard of. I’m always a bit apprehensive about recommendations, as it’s not the easiest telling friends their taste and standards have a lot to be desired, but the trust was there, and I thought, Sod it, why not? Despite the hotel's remote location and lack of transport links, we made the decision to stay overnight in a local hotel to fully enjoy the experience. Given my preference for indulging in the wine list, I believed this decision was the right one.

We walked to the restaurant from our hotel, which was only about 20 minutes away, enriched by a beautiful summer evening; this was a treat in itself.

Arriving at the tucked-away restaurant, which seemed to be at the end of a row of residential houses and next to a gorgeous little park, I was pleasantly surprised. It looked gorgeous with an obviously new, decked-out outside seating area, and housed in a beautiful stone building; it was already ticking many of my boxes.

Walking into the low-ceiling reception area, with lots of brick and neat dark wood furniture and cute little wine displays, I was instantly having a great time. The reception team was smart, friendly, and relaxed; they guided us to our table, a perfectly placed round little number in a romantic corner. The lighting was low and dark, enhanced by candlelight, and eased by the rumbles of Italian chefs talking in the open kitchen. The table, not central but well placed in a corner behind a few pillars, allows you to enjoy the ambience of chefs doing their thing without being too distracted. It was an early table as they were fully booked for a Wednesday, which is always a positive sign. There was a diverse group of diners, all of whom were relaxed and exuded subtle, high-quality perfumes and colognes, as well as crisp shirts and denim, complemented by a touch of grey hair.

A young, friendly waitress approached us within moments, presenting our menus and offering some water for the table. Immediately after a quick scan of the wine list, I squealed with excitement when I saw one of my favourite grape varieties and producers on the menu—job done!

Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva from producers Mezzacorona, a silky-smooth red, all ripe red fruits with aromas of blackcurrant and plums set against a luscious full-bodied backdrop, is the perfect Italian food wine to still allow all those rich Italian food flavours to shine. When I owned my own wine bar in Leeds, this was one of my staples and one you don’t often see on a menu, so again, another pleasant surprise.

With only 1.5 hours allowed for the table, as we booked quite late, I was glad to begin to decide about what to eat. If I’m honest, I’m one of those who usually seeks out the menu beforehand so I can be fully present and order quickly. I also eat quite slowly, so time was of the essence for me to fully immerse myself in the experience.

The menu itself hails great Italian classics, but with an emphasis on quality ingredients imported from Italy. The menu does not feature Galbani burrata, which is typically disguised under pesto and garnished with mixed leaves.

It’s probably the longest I’ve spent deciding in a while whilst dining, as there were such delicious-sounding dishes I was torn and wanted at least 3 starters and 3 mains. Luckily my husband and I love sharing, unless of course I love mine more than his and he just gets a few mouthfuls.

For starters, I opted for the Fungi Alla Toscana, chestnut mushrooms, garlic, parsley, cream, tomato, and bread. It arrived, and I can't tell you the beauty of the visual of this dish: quarters of chestnut mushrooms popping through a sumptuous autumnal-colored sauce with enough parsley so it's integral to the dish and the most delicious, chunky, crusty, lightly oiled, and bouncy bit of bread. It looked like heaven, and I can honestly say they were the best mushrooms I’ve ever had. In the chef world, they often have a saying called “too tasty,” which in its essence means a dish is well-seasoned and sparking a mouthfeel rich, sumptuous, and just on the edge of setting off too many taste receptors and frankly being just “too tasty.”.

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You will know it when you taste it. It’s like the fine line between burned and caramelised, just taking cookery to the edge. Just peering over the wall of this statement, these silky little quarters smothered in a sauce that was velvety, rich, but not overpowering. I could have bathed in this sauce all day, and the bread was the ideal chunk to mop up any sauce that remained; the parsley was not an afterthought either but a key element to the dish. Insanely good. I also ordered the imported burrata, a far cry from a galbani that I was served in a restaurant a few years ago. Fresh, creamy, and well-seasoned, it perfectly complemented the heritage tomatoes. What’s not to like?

The execution of a well-timed check-back, which should always occur 3–4 mouthfuls into a dish, was flawless.

For mains, I opted for the Orata Della Caponata in Agro Dolce. Pan-seared seabream served over a caponata of aubergine, capers, olives, tomato, and pine nuts served with vegetabless and potatoes. It's interesting when menus just state ingredients, as you really don't know anything about the cooking, and it is very much a thing of modern-day restaurant menus. It doesn’t ever leave much to the imagination and is a little bugbear of mine. Having worked in the hospitality industry for nearly 30 years, I've encountered a variety of situations.

Personally, I prefer a more descriptive representation of the dish on the menu, but that's a personal preference. The dish arrived perfectly cooked, and the flavour depth that sang from the plate—the subtle sweetness and sweet and sourness of the agrodolce sauce—was perfectly in tune with the rest of the dish.

Each dish is cooked to order, and you can tell; obviously, the sauces are all prepped beforehand, allowing the flavours to infuse, and they feel fresh and extremely authentic. Having visited numerous Italian restaurants that I adore for their flavours and dishes, I found them to be somewhat inconsistent. However, Villa d'Este offers a truly authentic Italian experience in a small, quaint village in East Yorkshire.

Dessert had to be Tiramisu, but I was so full I had to get it to take away, along with a margarita pizza, as I kept on spying them come out of the kitchen looking and smelling like they had come straight out of Naples, and, well, I knew after a walk back and a breather I would happily devour a slice in the hotel room. The tiramisu was lovely; not the best I’ve ever had, but it was worthy. Instead of a full sponge, it was sponge fingers packed with almond flavour, but the zabaglione was delicious. The pizza dough was exquisite, soft yet chewy, with springy crusts that were well-seasoned and had a perfect thin base. I didn’t reach for the salt and pepper once during the whole meal, and that for me is the perfect complement to any kitchen team.

The bill arrived efficiently and the take away packaging was also on point which is another plus, all very considered, you do pay for this but in my opinion, it is worth every penny.

Villa d'Este is an outstanding example of Italian cuisine, and I highly recommend it to anyone seeking a special occasion meal. It’s reassuringly expensive but not ridiculous, and once you eat the food, you have no qualms in paying the bill and leaving a tip.

The staff, the food, and the location are all excellent, making it one of the most satisfying meals I've had in a long time. I’ve also been back since this review, and it was just as good, so I am now consistent and not a one-show pony. Book a night off, get a designated driver, get a train to Brough, and just go; you will not be disappointed. Molto Delizioso.

Villa D’este Cucina Italiana
Church lane Elloughton Ellerker Brough HU15 2DN Visited October 2024
Wed: 12-4 5-11 Thurs : 12-4 5-11 Fri-: 12-4 5-11 Sat 12-4 5-11 Sun: 12-8
Av £30-£45 p/h
https://www.villadesteellerker.co.uk/