Group Editor Andrew Palmer stepped through the looking glass to discover County Durham's best-kept family secret.

Like Alice tumbling down the rabbit hole into an extraordinary world, a family day out at Raby Castle proves that the most magical adventures often lie just off the beaten track. How many times have you ventured north up or south down the A1 and taken that curious left or right turn and discovered something truly wonderful? This magnificent mediaeval fortress in County Durham is precisely that kind of delightful surprise—a place where history meets whimsy, where even the most restless young explorers will find themselves utterly enchanted.

"It truly is a wonderland," declared nine-year-old Aoife after our recent visit, and she couldn't have been more right. As temperatures soared on a glorious summer's day, we found ourselves transported to a realm where time moves differently – much like Alice's peculiar adventures – and where every corner holds a new surprise.

Through the Curtains to the Mad Hatter's Domain

Our wonderland adventure began with the castle's enchanting Alice in Wonderland trail. Stepping through heavy curtains felt exactly like Alice's first tumble – suddenly we were immersed in a kaleidoscope of fairy lights that danced like stars in the castle's ancient chambers. The pièce de résistance awaited: a perfectly arranged Mad Hatter's Tea Party, complete with mismatched china, crooked chairs, and that delicious sense of organised chaos that only the best tea parties possess.

At one end of this magical tableau sat an ornate throne – the Queen of Hearts would surely approve – providing the perfect backdrop for those obligatory family photos. But this wasn't just lovely scenery; a cleverly designed quiz kept twelve-year-old Tomas and his sister Aoife thoroughly engaged, transforming them from occasional teenage eye-rollers into genuine treasure hunters.

The children delighted in counting the playing cards suspended from the ceiling like enchanted confetti, though, be warned – one crafty card might not be quite where you'd expect it to be, adding an extra layer of Wonderland mischief to the hunt.

Four Mazes and a Race Against Time

The walled garden was our Wonderland's most surprising chapter. Four distinct mazes, crafted at just the right height for anxious parents to keep watchful eyes on their adventurers, created the perfect puzzle playground. Watching the children navigate these green corridors was like observing two young Mad Hatters in pursuit of the ever-elusive White Rabbit – darting, giggling, occasionally calling out "this way!" before disappearing around another corner.

The summer backdrop couldn't have been more perfect. Dragonflies danced over the soft, long grass like living jewels, while the imposing silhouette of the castle provided a magnificent backdrop that reminded us we were somewhere truly special. It was the kind of scene that makes you pause, breathe deeply, and feel genuinely grateful for these precious family moments.

A Castle Where Stories Come Alive

Inside the castle itself, we discovered something increasingly rare: staff who genuinely love what they do. Rather than maintaining distant, museum-like formality, these passionate guardians welcomed the children into each room as honoured guests. They didn't just recite facts; they wove stories that brought centuries of history to vivid life.

The Octagon Room particularly captivated us – a stunning red and gold drawing room where an imposing chandelier catches the light like something from a fairy tale. Here, surrounded by such grandeur, it was easy to imagine noble families from centuries past, their children perhaps running through these very halls.

'Eat Me, Drink Me' – A Feast Fit for Wonderland

After working up an appetite chasing white rabbits and solving riddles, we discovered another delightful surprise: the Vinery Café, where Alice's famous 'Eat Me, Drink Me' philosophy comes gloriously to life. The children's hampers were like edible treasure chests —colorful boxes brimming with treats that would make the Mad Hatter jealous. Inside these magical lunch boxes, little hands discovered sandwich surprises, sweet delights, and enough goodies to fuel the next adventure.

Sumptious feast

Kids hamper

Quiche and salad

But the café offers far more than whimsical children's fare. The grown-ups' menu reads like a Wonderland feast: artisan salads that sparkle with creativity, golden quiches that would grace any royal table, perfectly seasoned frittatas, and hearty sausage rolls that hit the spot after maze navigation. The curry selection provided warming comfort, while the array of sweet treats tempted even the most disciplined adults.

Housed in a bright, modern conservatory that feels like a magical greenhouse, the Vinery Café strikes that perfect balance between quality and value. Here, families can pause their adventures, refuel in comfort, and plan their next Wonderland expedition over genuinely excellent food.

Into the Plotters' Forest – Where Adventure Grows on Trees

The day's crown jewel awaited in The Plotters' Forest, Raby's woodland adventure playground woven seamlessly among a Christmas tree plantation. Here, young explorers truly step into Alice's shoes, following the White Rabbit deeper down the rabbit hole through a living, breathing forest maze. The trail challenges families to collect clues and solve riddles while surrounded by nature's own cathedral.

"It's a lot bigger than it looks, and there's so much to do!" marvelled Tomas, whose usual twelve-year-old reserve was completely abandoned in favour of pure adventure. What impressed us most was the thoughtful, natural design – beautifully crafted wooden features harmonise with the forest setting, creating play areas that feel organic rather than artificial. "There are so many trees; it's perfect for hide-and-seek – it really feels like you're in an enchanted forest," Tomas observed, his imagination clearly running wild.

The excitement here is infectious. Children dart between towering Christmas trees like characters from their favourite storybook, the scent of pine and the dappled sunlight creating an atmosphere that's both an adventure playground and a fairy tale.

Don't Miss This Wonderland

With summer events ending next week, families have just a brief window to experience this magical Alice-themed transformation. But here's the secret that locals have long known: Raby Castle is wonderful year-round. The Alice trail may be seasonal, but the castle's ability to transport visitors into another world remains constant.

So take whatever turn it is for you from the A1. Follow the signs down country lanes that seem to lead nowhere but actually lead to everywhere. Like Alice, you'll find that the most extraordinary adventures often begin with a single curious step off the well-trodden path.

At Raby Castle, wonder isn't just possible – it's inevitable. And in our fast-paced world, isn't that precisely the type of enchantment our families require?

With a grin as wide as the Cheshire Cat, Aoife perfectly summed up our entire adventure: "Fun, fun, fun!" The day was so energetic and engaging that both children fell fast asleep in the car, a sign of a perfectly spent family day. But the magic didn't end there. When we arrived home and they awakened from their travel dreams, there in our garden sat a rabbit. Not white, perhaps, but close enough to make us all smile and remember that sometimes, just sometimes, Wonderland follows you home.

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