Is a walking break in the Peak District in December a sensible idea, or just a triumph of optimism over common sense? The days are short, the weather can turn on you without warning, and the romance of winter walking often looks better in theory than in practice. But sometimes you get lucky. We did. The rain held off, the air was crisp, and the countryside felt like it belonged to us alone, a rare treat in one of England’s most popular landscapes.

The Bike and Boot Hotel in the Hope Valley makes a good base for this kind of winter escape. Modern without being soulless, cosy without trying too hard, it understands that walkers want comfort at the end of the day rather than gimmicks. A fifteen-minute drive brings you to the Fairholmes visitor centre, gateway to Ladybower Reservoir and its network of trails.

On a dry, chilly morning, we set off, winding our way around Derwent Water with only a handful of other walkers in sight. Access to trails is easy, well signposted, and varied enough for anything from a gentle loop to a longer, more demanding hike.

It is worth seeking out the Dambusters Memorial, and it stops you in your tracks in a way the scenery alone does not. Set above the Reservoir, the stone plinth and bronze propeller mark the training flights carried out here by 617 Squadron before the famous 1943 raid. It is a quiet, matter-of-fact place, with no theatrics, just names, dates, and the sweep of water below that mirrored the dams they would later attack. In winter, with fewer visitors and a cold wind coming off the reservoir, the memorial feels especially poignant.

Coming back to the hotel feels like returning to civilisation. The rooms are comfortable and spacious, spotlessly clean, and sensibly designed. A big bed you actually want to collapse into, a generous bathroom with a rainfall shower that delivers proper pressure, and enough space to dry damp clothes without turning the place into a steam room. It is practical luxury, which is exactly what you want after a day outside.

Downstairs, the bar is busy in the way good hotel bars should be. There is a Christmas tree in one corner, dogs everywhere, some of them dressed in novelty coats that add some comedy to the evening. It is lively but not rowdy, with walkers, locals, and weekend escapees all rubbing along easily. The cinema room is an unexpected bonus, screening old classics.

Food is taken seriously here. Tiger prawns arrive big, juicy, and properly seasoned, full of flavour rather than drowned in it. The flat iron steak is a generous portion at £25, cooked as requested and served without fuss. The vegan pizza at £14 deserves a mention, with a tangy sauce, crisp base, and exactly what you want from a pizza. A side of caponata brings a rich tomato base with aubergine, olives, and courgette, hearty enough to stand on its own.

Wine pricing is refreshingly sensible. A Santa Rosa Malbec at £28 is sweet and jammy, doing its job well with the richer dishes. Cocktails are handled with a steady hand, too. The Barnard Sour, made with rhubarb gin, is refreshing with a bite, sharp enough to wake you up after a long walk.

The Bike and Boot Hotel does not try to reinvent the countryside break. It simply does it properly. Good walking on the doorstep, warmth and comfort when you get back, decent food, fair prices, and a sense that guests are meant to relax rather than perform leisure. In December, with the crowds gone and the landscape stripped back to its essentials, that feels like a small luxury, and a reminder that sometimes the unfashionable season is the best time to go.

Bike & Boot Leisure Hotels - Peak District
Hope Road, Hope Valley
Peak District
S33 0AL
https://www.bikeandboot.com/peak-district